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Acne surprises young teens -- unpleasantly. Hormonal surges
stimulate skin oil production, and the resulting acne frustrates kids
and bruises their self-esteem.
In girls, the menstrual cycle
often takes years to stabilize, and fluctuating estrogen and
progesterone levels can make acne worse. Boys find that their acne
worsens during large growth spurts. What can young teens do to help
their skin stay clearer, and how can parents help?
"Get them in the habit of taking care of their skin early," suggests
Brandith Irwin, M.D., a Seattle dermatologist and nationally recognized
skin-care expert. "Don't wait until they're 16 and fighting acne and
then try to change their habits."
Irwin says that the type of cleanser teens use on mild acne isn't as
important as the drying product they apply, since cleansers generally
stay on the skin less than 15 seconds. She recommends that when parents
talk to teens about skin care, they also explain the importance of
using sunscreen and minimizing tanning to prevent melanoma.
Physicians divide acne into four types, ranging from least to most
severe: comedonal (blackheads and whiteheads), papular (red bumps),
pustular (red bumps with puss), and cystic (deep, inflamed, pus-filled
bumps, often painful). While milder acne often responds well to
nonprescription medication, "if a child is psychologically suffering
because of acne or is starting to show permanent scarring, that's the
time to seek a dermatologist," Irwin cautions.
Naturopathic physician Kimberly Kelly, N.D., R.N., who practices in
Kirkland and North Seattle, says that clearing acne can take as much as
a year of combined skin care and dietary change. As a naturopath, Kelly
sees a strong connection between what kids eat and how their skin
responds.
"Teens get really busy and have access to a lot more sugar and fast
foods," she says. "Saturated fats aggravate the acne. Parents can use
their kid's concern about their skin as an opportunity to talk about
nutrition. Don't focus on fat or calories, but on the quality of food
the teen chooses.
Families who seek naturopathic care for acne will most likely find
dietary advice and dietary supplements such as fish oil or flaxseed oil
that provide essential fatty acids and boost skin health. Kelly
recommends tea tree oil antibacterial soap as a topical first line of
defense for average (not cystic) teen acne.
Both Irwin and Kelly recommend Proactiv Solution, a regime of topical
products developed by two dermatologists, for non-cystic acne. The
products contain benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid, both of which are
also used in a variety of other non-prescriptive topical products
available at drugstores. Irwin also recommends microdermabrasion
treatments performed by a well-trained aesthetician for treating teen
acne and cites the Gene Juarez Salon chain as a good option for this
service.
Of course, acne products sitting unused under the bathroom sink are
ineffective. Getting young teens to buy into a skin-care regime is
crucial. "Setting products up where they can see them -- and purchasing
those products rather than asking them to pay for them -- is really
important," Kelly advises.
If parents notice their teen's acne getting worse despite available
products, Kelly suggests opening up a dialogue rather than asking
pointed questions. "Ask how things are going in general, and give
gentle prompts. Kids sometimes just forget to use the products," she
says.
When young teens do require dermatological care, Irwin says that she
and many other physicians now rarely prescribe antibiotics, opting
instead for one of a dozen or so topical medications.
"Accutane may be an appropriate treatment for cystic acne even at this
age," she advises, noting that girls of any age who are given Accutane
will also be required to take birth control pills. Parents should know
that although this drug is highly effective, its use in teens is
controversial because of very serious side effects.
Paula Becker is a Seattle freelance writer and a mother of three.
Healthy skin habits
- Wash hands before touching face.
- Wash face gently twice daily. Do not scrub.
- Girls who wear makeup should look for products labeled "oil-free" or "non-comedogenic."
- Don't squeeze or pick at pimples. Instead, apply a drying product.
- Always use sunscreen.
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