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“This is a magical world,” I overheard the dad behind me on the bus say. “Now we gotta go back to reality and work.”
Victoria, B.C., really does feel like a fairy tale. After an afternoon at The Butchart Gardens, we were taking the Gray Line Sightseeing shuttle back to the Inner Harbour. The sky turned pink and lights outlining the Parliament Buildings twinkled on just as we walked by.
The walkable downtown core was built at a time when people traveled by horse, and its airport can be delayed for whales on the runway. The island’s native Garry oak trees were Walt Disney’s inspiration for the spooky trees in “Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs.” It’s a storybook city that enchants kids of all ages.
Getting to Victoria, BC with kids
The easiest way to get to Victoria is by the FRS Clipper, a comfortable 2-hour, 45-minute cruise that departs from Seattle’s Pier 69. It’s worth upgrading to Vista Class, the upstairs deck with roomy leather seats.
The FRS Clipper drops you off in the Inner Harbour so you can get right down to business.
Plan your weekend itinerary around these attractions
Seek thrills on the water or land
A whale watch with Eagle Wing Whale & Wildlife Tours was by far the biggest adrenaline rush. We checked in and picked up loaner winter coats and snow pants. These came in handy later — don’t underestimate how cold it is on the water, even in summer. The open-air speedboat zipped along the coastline of southern Vancouver Island, and it was just us and the blue sky and the blue water until — whoa! — we stumbled into a group of eight humpback whales.
We motored back to Fisherman’s Wharf four hours, two transient orcas, one sea otter and a herd of harbor seals later. Slightly stunned by our good fortune, and in awe of the natural world.
Malahat Skywalk, which opened in 2021, is another must for the adventurous. It’s 35 minutes north of downtown Victoria and there’s a free shuttle. The 10-story open spiral is completely accessible, with restrooms and snack shops at the base.
From the top, take in 360-degree views of islands, forest, even Mount Baker peeking out. (Hello, Washington!) We explored the driftwood sculptures, stepped out onto a glass cube and bounced on a rope web. A red-tailed hawk soared by.
For the biggest thrill, the 66-foot-tall tube slide shoots you to the ground in 10 seconds. A young visitor set a record of sliding down 51 times — can you beat him?
Get up close with critters
Stop by the street next to the Parliament Buildings to see draft horses lined up for Tally-Ho carriage rides.
Then get up close and personal with much smaller critters at the Victoria Bug Zoo, home to more than 50 species. An educator brings out insects to hold: a horsehead grasshopper, a hooded katydid and a thorny devil that nearly pooped on my hand. The resident tarantulas dislike crowds, so if you’ve always wanted to hold one, visit in the off-season.
Beacon Hill Park is a huge city park with playgrounds, a spray park, an off-leash park and even its own petting zoo. Visit the Moss Lady, a sculpture planted with club and cattail moss, then walk under a noisy great blue heron colony in a grove of tall trees.
At the family-run Beacon Hill Children’s Farm, we saw the sweetest 6-day-old baby goats, along with alpacas, donkeys and miniature pigs. Chickens and peacocks roam free. Time your visit for the exciting goat stampede, held daily at 10:10 a.m. and 5:10 p.m.
Immerse yourself in stories
Victoria lays claim to being the most haunted city in the Pacific Northwest, and you can learn about the city’s darker side on a Ghostly Walk with Discover the Past. Is it suitable for kids? The official age recommendation is 12 and older, but families are welcome and our group included a happy 6-year-old.
Miniature World is truly the stuff of fairy tales. The 85 dioramas include the world’s smallest operating sawmill and two of the world’s largest dollhouses. Scenes range from Camelot to Mother Goose to the Civil War. The level of detail is breathtaking; tiny puffs of smoke billow from the ends of tiny guns.
Stop by Munro’s Books to pick out new reads for the boat ride home. The famous bookstore is located in a former bank with soaring ceilings and elegant moldings. The cozy children’s annex in the back even has a livres en Français section.
Bring home a souvenir
Puzzle lovers, you’ve never seen jigsaw puzzles like these. We brought home a handcrafted orca puzzle from Puzzle Lab, where the puzzle pieces are in the shape of tiny orcas. Founders Tinka Robev and Andrew Azzopardi come from a design and architecture background and it shows.
Go to Cherry Bomb Toys for a blast from the past. Co-owners B and Candice Woodward focus on vintage, collectable toys, everything from Sailor Moon to Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. The back of the building is dedicated to the nonprofit National Toy Museum of Canada, whose goal is to preserve the history of toys.
Grab breakfast, lunch and a sweet treat
For breakfast, Floyd’s Diner James Bay serves up massive portions, perfect for fueling growing kids.
Pinhalla Pinball Pizzeria sells pizza by the slice and CA$5 cups of tokens, which it turns out, is the price of my 11-year-old’s affection. I’m afraid we created a pinball monster. Pinhalla was his favorite place in Victoria.
Don’t miss Rogers’ Chocolates in the downtown core. The store itself is as much a treat as its chocolates, with stained-glass fixtures, penny tile and original wood cabinets dating back to 1903.
Make it a weekend with a hotel stay
I’ve done Victoria as a day trip — first boat out of Seattle and last boat back — and you will absolutely regret this option. There is too much to see and do.
We stayed at the Coast Victoria Hotel & Marina, a 10-minute walk from the FRS Clipper terminal and away from the hubbub of the Inner Harbour. Have breakfast with a view at Blue Crab Seafood House in the hotel lobby. The kids loved the indoor/outdoor pool, where swimming comes with a backdrop of seaplanes taking off.
Editor’s note: This trip was hosted by Destination Greater Victoria, but all opinions expressed here belong to the writer.
