Claim to Foodie Fame: Chef, Dinner Service Facilitator, Sitka & Spruce
Quote: My family was pretty avid in the outdoor recreations of hunting, fishing, and trapping, and so there was a lot of preservation that occurred throughout my childhood. It is a fond food memory that I am really lucky to have.
What is your role at Sitka & Spruce?
My job at Sitka can best be described as a facilitator for Matt [Sitka & Spruce owner Matt Dillon]. Technically he doesn't believe too much in hierarchy or titles, but I oversee production of dinner service, manage the whole animal butchery program, develop charcuterie, and execute his menus. I have some input on the menu, but my responsibilities are more geared towards those of a sous chef, but I prefer a slightly more romantic title of facilitator just because of the amount of assumed responsibility.
What are your earliest memories of food and cooking?
My first memories of food are kind of blurry, but I remember canning peaches with my grandmother and making maple syrup with my grandfather. Those memories are really a concrete part of my cooking foundation and I feel like I draw a lot on them in my normal everyday activities.
What is your idea of comfort food?
Well, I can honestly say my go-to food for comfort is pho or congee. I love waking up on a rainy Sunday and heading into the International District and going to Greenleaf for vegetarian pho. It is so satisfying for me! Spicy broth, vegetables, rice noodles... It really doesn't get much better. It is simple and well-executed and always tastes just the way remember it. I always leave feeling satisfied.
Their congee is really good as well, but it's a little more filling, so I feel like I have to fast a day before I plan on eating it — the over-cooked rice just seems to insulate my body.
If you could only eat one meal for the rest of your life, what would it be?
I think if I had to eat only one meal for the rest of my life it would be raw greens, raw nuts, raw fruit, and quinoa. I can do without dairy and protein, and quinoa is an excellent source of protein and carbohydrates; greens, nuts, and fruit are a must. They leave me feeling rejuvenated and I can start processing it into energy immediately without having to wait for digestion to set in.
How did your family honor food traditions in your household?
My family held holiday meals in high regard. We would all gather at my grandmother's house and there would be an abundance of food and we would all sit and feast all day. The meal would range from preserved fruits and vegetables from summer to game and other animals trophied during the hunting season. My family was pretty avid in the outdoor recreations of hunting, fishing, and trapping, and so there was a lot of preservation that occurred throughout my childhood. It is a fond food memory that I am really lucky to have.
Who do you credit with inspiring in you a love of food?
I guess I first learned how to handle food because of my grandmother, my mom, and my aunt. All these ladies had very special places for food in their heart and used food as a tool for creating a home environment to welcome friends and family. It was more of an extension of themselves than a service that was offered, and that message was impactful on me when deciding to make this a career choice.
I think I mostly give credit to my Aunt Kitty, since she was the Greek matriarch of our family and owned and operated a small catering company out of her home. There were always intense smells wafting through her house and she always took the time to explain what she was doing to me and my cousins as well as putting us to work as little prep minions, doing tedious labor for her while she paid us in small bites of whatever creations she was working on. She was truly an inspiration to me and I pay her great respect for everything she taught me as well as the passion she showed me at an early age.
Share an example of one of your family food traditions.
One of my favorite traditions was baking around the holidays with my mom and aunt. The thought of gathering around and spending the day buried in various sugars, flours, and jams while trying to make the perfect pastries or cookies was quite enjoyable to me. I think I reflect fondly on making baklava around Christmas and having these sticky little morsels of nuts and pastry laden with honey, orange, and spice to reward yourself after spending an afternoon in the cold snow. Truly one of life's great pleasures.
What is your favorite dish or meal to cook?
My favorite dish to cook on a personal level would have to be quinoa because it is my favorite food. On a professional level, I love grilling fresh sardines over a hot fire. There is something profound and enticing about the way the fire caramelizes the fat packed into those little tiny fish and how the balance of smoke, lots of fresh lemon, good olive oil, parsley, and sea salt creates an insane flavor that is really created by the integrity of the product itself. The hard part is just cooking them to perfection. Really, though, that is a reflection of childhood as well since we would often have some type of briny, rich fish in oil (sardines or anchovies) to eat with olives and bread. They are rather simple in preparation, but they speak for themselves when prepared well and when using appropriate ingredients that complement their flavor.
If you could invite anyone to your holiday dinner— living,dead, or imaginary — who would it be?
Well, I would definitely say my grandmother and my aunt for sure. I would like them to have the opportunity to see what kind of influence they had on me as a child and how it has shaped me in my profession. Also my grandfather, who taught me a lot about wild game and foraging as well as introduced me to the art of making maple syrup. I would like to get his feedback on my ability to cure meat and see if he would approve.
I guess if I had to invite someone famous it would be Paul Bertolli. I think the man is a genius and has left quite a mark on the culinary world. I would love to sit down with him and talk about his inspiration, his passion, and why he chose this profession.
Kylen McCarthy's Baklava Recipe
Ingredients:
1 16 oz. package phyllo dough
1 lb. chopped walnuts/pistachios
8 oz. butter
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. ground allspice
5 cloves
1 orange
1 vanilla bean
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup local honey
Method:
Preheat convection oven to 325 degrees F. Butter bottoms and sides of glass 9 x 13-inch baking pan. Unroll phyllo package and cut phyllo sheets in half on vertical axis to fit baking pan. Cover phyllo sheets with damp towel to keep pastry moist. Lightly toast walnuts/pistachios and rough-chop with knife. Combine chopped nuts, cinnamon, allspice, and zest of orange (reserving orange for later). Mix well and set aside. Melt butter and layer two sheets of phyllo in baking dish, covering entire surface area of baking vessel. Baste sheets with butter and continue layering sheets, buttering every layer until you have 6 layers of pastry. Evenly distribute 2-3 tbsps of nut mixture on top of buttered sheets and continue layering process until all pasty and nut mixture has been used. Butter the top of the pastery and using a knife, cut diagonally from side to side, forming diamond -shaped pieces of the pastry. Place in preheated oven and bake for about 50 minutes or until the pastry is golden brown, checking every 20 minutes.
While baklava is baking, start making the syrup: combine cloves, sliced orange, vanilla bean, water, sugar, and honey and bring to slow simmer until all ingredients have had time to merry together. Simmer for 20 minutes and set aside while baklava continues to bake. Once baklava is done baking, spoon syrup over warm baklava and let cool uncovered (if covered the pastry gets too saturated).
Garnish with chopped nuts and serve with Turkish coffee.
Photo credit: Kylen McCarthy (right) with friends at a recent winery event in Sonoma; photo by Eva Soroken
