Tropical Family Escape: Where to Stay and Play in Puerto Rico

When dreaming of a warm, sunny beach vacation, Pacific Northwesterners often look no further than Hawaii or Mexico — and for good reason. These stunning destinations are packed with family-friendly appeal. But if you’re eager to broaden your family’s horizons and experience the vibrant culture of a breathtaking Caribbean island — no passport required — Puerto Rico is calling as your next family getaway.

On a recent trip in December, I was struck by the beauty of the lush green island — and I grew up in Western Washington, green is what we do best. The volcano-free Isle of Enchantment is home to the United States’ only tropical rainforest ecosystem and the only tropical rainforest reachable for Americans without a passport. The El Yunque Rainforest is just minutes from a luxurious beachfront, making Puerto Rico a fantastic option for adventure- and chill-seeking families alike.

Getting to know Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico is an archipelago in the Caribbean Sea about 1,000 miles southeast of Miami, Florida. It is an unincorporated U.S. territory consisting of four small islands and a large main island that is about 100 miles long and 35 miles wide. The country is divided into six regions, each with a unique appeal.

I stayed in the east region in a small town called Río Grande. This is an ideal location if the rainforest is a top priority for your visit. The town is set on a gorgeous coastline that is only about a 15-minute drive to the rainforest. The airport and Old San Juan — a lively, kid-friendly tourist destination — are less than 40 minutes from Río Grande. Plus, it’s within 20 miles of one of the island’s three world-renowned bioluminescent bays, making it the perfect home base for your adventures.

Staying at the Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve Puerto Rico

Beyond the location, when traveling with my kids, I look for a few key features when choosing where to stay: safety, great swimming spots, spacious accommodations and opportunities to experience the local culture. The Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve Puerto Rico in Río Grande checked every box on my family-friendly list and then some. The resort spans an entire 72-acre private peninsula at the foothills of El Yunque Rainforest and it is accessible only through a gated entrance — making it feel safe enough to let the kids roam. Plus, everywhere we went in Puerto Rico, I felt as safe as I do back home.

The sprawling lagoon-style pool, the largest in Puerto Rico, features plenty of shallow offshoots for water-winged tots. The swim-up bar, serving delish blended drinks, will have parents happily indulging their little fishies’ requests to stay a little longer. The mango daiquiri is one of the best I’ve ever had, and don’t miss the frozen coquito. This rich, creamy Puerto Rican Christmas drink, blended with ice, is absolutely out of this world — and it is now on the menu year-round!

When your little one’s pruney fingers finally do need a break, there is a kids club with a small playground and a few games in an under-covered area at the pool’s edge. This, in addition to a small soccer field, pingpong tables and a putting green, will keep kids of any age entertained on a pool day. Even though the hotel was nearly full during my visit, the pool area never felt crowded. There are tons of available pool loungers with umbrellas, and you don’t have to be first out on the pool deck to claim them. There are also three additional luxurious pools on the property — with one reserved for adults only if you want to sneak away.

However, we didn’t travel more than 3,000 miles to swim in a pool (as fantastic as it is), so a dip in the ocean is a must. The resort’s private sandy beach is within view from the lagoon pool, and it is equipped with tons of beach chairs, umbrellas, and waitstaff to deliver ice-cold drinks and yummy fare. The resort is set on a protected reef, so the waves break about 300 yards from the beach. This makes it nice and calm to wade in, and less stressful with young kids. Grab some buckets and shovels from the resort and search for seashell treasures. I found the water temperature to be more comfortable than Hawaii and Cabo, which extended our time in the ocean.

Resort accommodations

With the smallest room spanning a generous 520 square feet, families can sprawl out when staying at this property. From the ultra-luxe suites with private pools to the standard double queen, you can’t go wrong. I stayed in the newest section of the hotel, the Villas en la Reserva, a new private area of the resort with its own pool.

Each room in this section offers private balconies, separate bedrooms and a kitchenette — an ideal setup for families. I especially appreciated the abundance of storage — finally, a hotel where keeping kid stuff off the floor felt doable. I also loved the huge tub in a pocket room apart from the bathroom, making it a perfect place to sneak away for a soak. There is also the option to get a string of connecting rooms, some with full-size dinner tables, which would be ideal for a multigenerational family vacation.

Sometimes, when staying at large brand-name resorts, it can feel like you could be anywhere — the heart and soul of the destination can be lost in branded bathrobes and corporate initiatives. It was clear that this property strives to embody and honor the rich culture of Puerto Rico in everything they do. Guests staying at the Villas en la Reserva can enjoy a complimentary Puerto Rican breakfast featuring pan sobao — a soft, fluffy, cornmeal-based sweet bread baked daily in a rustic oven. Served with cheese, sweet butter and fresh dark coffee, this delightful meal is delivered right to your room. I happily indulged in the traditional breakfast that many locals and hotel staff grew up eating, and it’s easy to see why this comforting meal is so beloved.

There is something so magical about this place, from the dreamy tropical hammock garden to the giant iguanas sunning themselves on the lawn to the soothing calls of native coqui frogs at night to the spectacular views of both the rainforest and ocean — the surroundings are truly special.

This resort is the perfect family destination, boasting a stunning location, spacious accommodations and incredible amenities. And I haven’t even mentioned the amazing spa, the 18-hole championship golf course or the exceptional restaurants on-site. From authentic Puerto Rican fare to a hibachi grill for mealtime entertainment, to the Sand Trap Bar & Grill featuring a TopGolf interactive gaming simulator — there are endless memories to be made.

Visiting during the holidays

Puerto Ricans are known to celebrate the holiday season in a big way. November to January is officially called the Festive Season, and this extended holiday is filled with music, parrandas (Puerto Rican-style caroling) and traditional foods. I was lucky enough to visit Puerto Rico in early December (which I highly recommend) and experience how the resort embraces this celebratory time of year. It was decorated to the nines and offered festive drinks and menu items for the holiday season.

As I mentioned, the coquito (think spiked eggnog with a fantastic tropical twist) is worth a trip all on its own. I also experienced my first parranda while visiting and I couldn’t get enough of the upbeat and catchy music. The resort also hosts an incredible surprise Christmas attraction each year, running from Christmas week through New Year’s Eve. This year’s highlight was a zip line that soared over the pool and down to the beach! Combined with a traditional Puerto Rican holiday feast that guests can enjoy, this property would make an ideal holiday getaway.

Historic and adventurous rainforest tours

With the breathtaking rainforest serving as a stunning backdrop to nearly every view from the resort, it was impossible to resist a visit. We did a rainforest tour with SALTours, visiting all the coolest spots with an incredibly friendly and knowledgeable guide.

Our first stop was the Yokahu Tower, a 70-foot observation tower at 1,500-foot elevation. When we made it to the top, I was immediately stunned by the expansiveness of the lush green mountains that sprawl out towards the ocean. The views were otherworldly, and it is a must-see.

Our next stop was the historic site, Baño Grande — a gorgeous man-made pool built in the 1930s. Swimming was prohibited in the 1960s due to safety concerns, but the remaining structures offer a beautiful glimpse into the past.

There are tons of enchanting hiking trails through the rainforest at various difficulty levels, some promising natural pools for a soul-refreshing swim. We walked some of the easier trails near the visitor center featuring unique native plants, animals and insects. The newly renovated El Portal de El Yunque Visitor Center features interactive elements for kids and you can admire the elusive Puerto Rican parrot up close at a new exhibit. We also stopped at La Coca Falls, which is a stunning 85-foot waterfall perfect for photo ops.

Though the climate is always warm in Puerto Rico (the average temperature is a balmy 80 degrees year-round), bring your rain gear if you plan to adventure in the rainforest. It rains multiple times a day up in the mountains. The showers come in spurts, however, and we lucked out with no rain at all during our visit. It is important to note that hurricane season is classified as June 1 until Nov. 30 (the rainy season), so take that into consideration when planning your trip.

Our tour concluded at Luquillo Beach, a gorgeous sandy beach in the quaint coastal town of Luquillo. This spot is worth a visit, whether on a tour or not. The waves were gentle and the water was just right. Plus, it is conveniently adjacent to the Kioskos de Luquillo, a lively strip of family-owned food stands serving up all sorts of different foods, including delicious traditional Puerto Rican comfort food and drinks. It was the perfect spot to cool off and refuel after our rainforest adventure.

We bar-hopped and sampled eats and drinks at several stands until our bellies were full. The atmosphere is lively, with loud music and a fun party vibe. We saw a bachelorette party, but there were also plenty of families enjoying the scene. If it’s too much for your crew, it’s also just a short walk to the spacious beach, so everyone can pick what they want and picnic on the beach!

Things to do in Puerto Rico with kids

Families with older kids will love to discover another incredible natural wonder unique to Puerto Rico: bioluminescent bays. Three of the most vibrant bio bays in the world are in Puerto Rico, making it a must-do adventure while on the island. Bioluminescence is when ocean water seems to glow in the dark, caused by living organisms that produce light through a natural chemical reaction. It is one of the most magical natural wonders of the world, and numerous tour companies offer bio bay kayaking adventures in Puerto Rico. Conditions do change, so it is important to call ahead to check the bay’s brightness. Mosquito Bay, located on a smaller island near the main one, is the best spot to view the natural phenomenon. However, there’s also a spectacular location just about 20 miles from Río Grande called Laguna Grande.

If you have some history buffs or shoppers in your crew, a visit to Old San Juan is a must. Strolling through the cobblestone streets, you’ll discover a shopping experience that’s as rich in history as it is in charm. You could spend all day exploring this historic district, home to a diverse mix of art galleries and boutique shops showcasing Puerto Rican culture. Old San Juan is also home to some incredible historic sites like the Castillo San Felipe del Morro, which is a towering six-level fortress that began construction in 1539 and withstood numerous battles. Exploring the barracks, dungeons, storerooms and original ocean-facing cannons will thrill the whole family, and the nearby lawn is a marvelous place for flying a kite.

More to know for planning your trip

The biggest hang-up for West Coast families is the flight. There are no direct flights from SEA airport, so you will have to do a layover. Puerto Rico is about a 2.5-hour flight from Miami, so West Coasters often plan for a layover in Miami. The flight to Miami is close to six hours. It is certainly a lot of time to fill for young kids, so you want to be properly prepared for the long flight. It will be worth it once you get a glimpse of the lush green island with gorgeous white sand beaches!

I can’t speak about my visit to Puerto Rico without mentioning the friendly, cheerful, and passionate Puerto Rican people. They welcome visitors with warmth and generosity, while their deep sense of pride is palpable. Everyone I met could speak English as well as Spanish, making communication very easy. I left with a deeper admiration for our fellow Americans in the Caribbean — along with some amazing Puerto Rican recipes and music to enjoy.

The Isle of Enchantment offers so much for families, from gorgeous beaches and the fascinating rainforest to magical bioluminescent bays and a rich, vibrant culture. Whether your family is new to travel or you're just looking for your next adventure, Puerto Rico is a fantastic destination. You will find the familiar comforts of home in a lush green tropical paradise.

The Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve Puerto Rico is the perfect home base. I look forward to another chance to admire the sunset while swaying in their hammock garden as the soothing melody of the coqui frogs fills the air  — frozen coquito in hand.

Editor’s note: This trip was hosted by Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve Puerto Rico, but all opinions expressed here belong to the writer.