Photo:
Port Townsend, Wash., waterfront. Credit: PTMurphus/Flickr CC
It’s rare to find a getaway that combines beaches, hands-on history, kid-friendly hiking paths and a touristy downtown. Port Townsend, Washington, has all these things — plus an awesome new playground nearby!
Located on the Olympic Peninsula, just an hour-and-a-half drive from the Bainbridge ferry dock, this nearby Victorian seaport makes for a perfect day trip or weekend getaway destination for Seattle-area families.
As a Port Townsend native, I’ve compiled a list of can’t-miss attractions and locals-only hidden gems. From Fort Worden State Park to Finnriver Farm & Cidery, I dare you not to fall in love with my ultra-charming hometown.
1. Fort Worden State Park
You could easily spend your whole weekend at Fort Worden State Park. Once a military base designed to protect the Puget Sound, it’s home to abandoned bunkers, a plethora of well-maintained walking paths, a field that’s fabulous for flying kites and a lower beach complete with the Marine Science Center (read: marine touch tanks and mammal skeletons), plus the picturesque Point Wilson Lighthouse. You can also stay overnight in historic buildings at Fort Worden.
Local tips: Find otters snacking on mollusks on the floating docks near the Marine Science Center pier. Try your spookiest howls in the echoing halls of Battery Kinzie, known to locals as the lower bunkers. The cantina across from the Marine Science Center has build-your-own sundaes in the summertime. You’ll find the most beach glass along North Beach.
2. Aldrich’s Market and Chetzemoka Park
Nestled in the heart of uptown Port Townsend you’ll find Aldrich’s Market, Washington’s oldest grocery store, first opened in 1895. This town favorite features local produce, tasty premade paninis and endless snacks.
After you hit Aldrich’s, go to the end of Lawrence Street to Chetzemoka Park. In the early 1950s, white settlers came to Port Townsend and were welcomed by Chief Chetzemoka of the S’Klallam Tribe. The park was dedicated to him in 1904. With a wide-open field, swings, gazebo, play structure and beach access, “Chetz” (as the locals call it) has it all.
Local tips: Aldrich’s sells fresh, authentic sushi upstairs. Take it to Chetzemoka for a casual picnic on the tables next to the playground. If it’s a low-tide day, head down to the beach for the best tide-pooling in town.
3. Rose Theatre
You don’t have to see a movie at the Rose Theatre to get a taste of its famous popcorn, but if you catch a glimpse of the inside of this old-school theater, you might want to settle in for a film.
Local tip: Dress up your popcorn with the following array of toppings, available at the condiment station to the right of the concession counter: butter, yeast, Parmesan and Silverwater Spice. Insider tip: Ask for your preferred size popcorn in a one-size-larger bag, so you have room to shake the toppings throughout the bag.
4. Breakfast at Hudson Point Café
If you’re looking for a family-friendly breakfast spot with a great view, check out Hudson Point Café. Located in the marina, it’s the perfect place to watch sailboats come and go while you enjoy a simple, tasty breakfast.
Local tip: Go early — it gets busy!
5. Hot chocolate at Velocity in the Northwest Maritime Center
When it comes time for an afternoon pick-me-up, take the kids to Velocity. This coffee shop serves up quality brews in a sparse but warm setting. Peruse the attached Northwest Maritime Center Shop while you wait for your coffee. For adults and adventurous kids, I recommend trying the spicy mocha, made with dark chocolate, Himalayan salt, cayenne and cinnamon.
Local tip: Instead of sitting down inside, take a walk on the pier to watch the ferry to Coupeville slide by super close. Keep an eye out: You’re likely to see seals bobbing around in the shallow water underneath your feet! On a truly lucky day, you might see a harbor porpoise or even some orcas swimming between Port Townsend and Indian Island.
6. Finnriver Farm & Cidery
Just 15 minutes outside of Port Townsend, Finnriver River Farm & Cidery should not be missed. This newer cidery has quickly become a local staple for year-round fun. Here you’ll find an open-air building with heaters in the wintertime and shade in the summer. On weekends, dance to folksy local musicians. While this is a hard-cider spot, don’t be deterred — Finnriver is 100-percent kid-friendly. Take a walk in the orchard, try your aim at cornhole or let the kids wear themselves out climbing the big playground tires. Did I mention Finnriver has delicious, organic and locally sourced food?
Local tips: Adults should try the black current cider. Feeling more daring? The spicy-sweet habanero cider offers an interesting kick.
7. Jefferson Museum of Art & History
Port Townsend has a host of fun little museums, but don’t miss the Jefferson Museum of Art & History. Marvel at our maritime history, which includes a surprising amount of Victorian-era drama. Bonus: If you have an antsy youngster, head to Pope Marine Park across the street to get the wiggles out.
Local tip: Don’t miss the jail downstairs!
8. Elevated Ice Cream & Candy Shop
Fun fact: Elevated Ice Cream first started selling ice cream out of an antique Victorian elevator cage. Now in a larger space, it serves up quality homemade flavors of both traditional ice cream and dairy-free Italian ice. Most go for a plain ol’ cone, but the shop’s build-your-own sundaes and made-on-the-spot milkshakes are fabulous.
Local tips: The Swiss orange chocolate chip ice cream flavor is a local favorite that is available all year long. Get it with chocolate sprinkles. Don’t miss a ride on the coin-operated buffalo in the back!
9. Window shopping
Port Townsend is a tourist town, which means it has a plethora of cute shops. Walk the length of Water Street for toy stores, trinket shops and more. Whistle Stop Toys will meet your traditional toy store needs, while Abracadabra offers quirkier gifts for kids and adults alike. Love books? Check out the Imprint Bookstore’s kids’ section or get lost among the endless stacks of used books at William James Bookseller.
Local tip: Grab lunch at Waterfront Pizza. While there’s a sit-down restaurant upstairs, locals get their slices to go and sit by the beach around the corner.
10. A bounty of festivals
I admit, as a Port Townsend local, I’ve rolled my eyes at the zillions of festivals we have. Love jazz? Come in July for the Jazz Port Townsend Festival. Love boats? Check out the Wooden Boat Festival in September. Looking for a fun kiddie parade, pet parade, grand parade and carnival? Hop over for the Rhododendron Festival, held the third week in May. Kids will love the up-close performances of Shakespeare in the Park and the kooky creativity that goes into Port Townsend’s annual Kinetic Sculpture Race in October.
Local tip: Port Townsend is fun all year round. Summer is busiest, but during the shoulder seasons or even winter you can beat the crowds. You’ll find fewer tourists, fewer fests and more opportunities to explore the town like a true local.
Bonus: Jefferson Universal Movement Playground (JUMP)
To really get out those car-ride wiggles, stop by the new JUMP playground — it opened in November 2022 at HJ Carroll Park in Chimacum. Find it about 20 minutes south of Port Townsend and on the way to or from Seattle.
JUMP features accessible play features designed for kids ages 5–12. Don’t miss the swimming orcas! Other highlights include a flat-entry spinner, a climbing dome, musical elements and lots more. A second phase of construction calls for a play structure dedicated to younger tots. For safety, the entire play area is fenced and gated; remember to shut the gate behind you after you enter or exit. Have fun!
If you go ...Find it: The most direct way to get to Port Townsend from the Seattle area is by way of the Edmonds-Kingston or Seattle-Bainbridge ferries. Plan on a 2- to 2.5-hour trip, including the ferry ride but not including ferry wait time. If you’re in the South Sound, head north across the Tacoma Narrows Bridge and plan on about a 2-hour drive from Tacoma. Where to stay: Get a taste of Port Townsend’s charm by staying in one of the many Victorian bed-and-breakfasts. If you want something close to the water, check out The Swan Hotel. Historic Manresa Castle Hotel offers the chance to stay in a haunted room. The Harborside Inn offers simple, less expensive rooms within walking distance of downtown. More day-trip and weekend getaway destinations for Seattle-area families:
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Editor’s notes: Top image credit PTMurphus/Flickr CC. This article was originally published in 2019 and updated most recently for 2023.
